A St. Partick's Day Memory: Colcannon

My first exposure to Irish food was in the late 1960s when I lived in London and Shepherd’s Pie has been a comfort food for me ever since. The second Irish dish I learned to love was Colcannon. The name alone sounded magical and was fun to say. Little did I know the magic was in its simplicity and humility. When I moved to Houston in the early 1970’s, no one had heard of Colcannon. Then came Darian Allen and her Balleymaloe Cookery School via the airwaves on PBS (our Public Broadcast Station). Her recipes were simple and made from fresh garden and local ingredients. Because I always seem to be short on time, this Colcannon recipe is a quick version of her method. I leave the skins on the red potatoes for color and nutrition. Also because it’s easier. If you have time to boil and steam the potatoes whole then peel them, look up Darina Allen’s recipe. It’s well worth the time.

Colcannon is velvety, luscious and satisfying. It is a minimalist dish, so each of the ingredients should be fresh and delicious. Luckily, beautiful cabbage and new potatoes are in season as spring blossoms being to show here.

I don’t know anyone who doesn’t like this. When I cooked this at my farmers market cooking demonstration in 2018 in honor of St. Patrick’s Day, all the children came by for a taste and asked for seconds. Many who swore they hated cabbage left with their minds changed. That should tell you something.

Potatoes are a rich source of vitamins C, B6 and magnesium. Cabbage is an excellent source of vitamins C, B6, K, fiber and potassium. It is also a good source of vitamins B1, B2, B3, B7, choline and selenium. This dish is healthy and delicious. Nutritionally speaking, it rocks!

Serve it with roasted salmon, lamb, corned beef, sausages, chicken…it’s a perfect accompaniment or great on its own.

RECIPE: COLCANNON

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound fresh red potatoes

• 1 pound Savoy, spring cabbage, or kale, chopped

• ½ stick salted Irish butter

• 1 cup whole milk

• 1 oz spring onion or scallions, finely sliced

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

PROCESS

• Simmer scallions in milk.

• Cut and boil the potatoes is salted water.

• Boil the cabbage. 4. Drain the potatoes and mash with scallion milk and 1/4 stick of butter.

• Stir in drained cabbage.

• Salt to taste.

• Serve with a knob of good Irish butter and freshly cracked pepper.

Serves 8 (recipe may be halved)

Pasta with Peas & Dill

Simple pastas are the best. That’s what I learned in Italy. Get good pasta, hopefully fresh, but frozen will do and good quality dried is fine too. Don’t complicate the sauce. Use what you have. I get my pasta from Casetta, where they get their flour from Italy and the chef is Italian!

I got to this from my travels to Turin. I was there for a conference in the 1990s. I was attending a course that ended late and I missed dinner. On my way back to my hotel, I stopped in the little bar for a drink and asked if there was a place to get some food as the hotel restaurant was closed. The owner went into the back and came out with a lovely bowl of pasta with peas in a simple butter sauce. It was delicious. Heavenly. So I came back the next evening and he made another plate of pasta for me, this time with herbs he had on hand. The third night I asked if I could see how he created this magical pasta and he showed me.

This pasta dish is a homage to my teacher in Turin. Travel is remarkable in so many ways, but for me food and connection to place is the most meaningful.

The pasta and peas both provide protein, the butter and olive oil are good fats and the dill gives vitamins and mineral. You can eat this alone or with a small piece of fish or a few shrimp. It’s really delicious. If you don’t like dill, use parsley or a combination of other herbs instead. It’ll be just a good, only different.

RECIPE: Pasta with Peas & Dill

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 Teaspoons good butter

• 1 Tablespoon Extra Virgin Olive oil

• 2 Tablespoon Meyer lemon juice (1 Table spoon regular lemon juice)

• 1/4 Teaspoon crushed red chili

• 1 Cup chopped fresh dill

• 2 Cups frozen peas, rinsed in water

• 2 Tablespoons creme fraiche

• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

• 1/4 Teaspoon freshly ground pepper

• 8oz fresh pasta

• Grated parmesan for serving

PROCESS

• Warm butter, olive oil in a pan on low heat.

• Add lemon juice and chili flakes.

• Add dill, salt and pepper and gently warm for 1-2 minutes.

• Add peas and warm for 2-3 minutes.

• Add creme fraiche and mix to create sauce.

• Add pasta, toss and cook with sauce for 1 minute.

• Serve with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese

Serves 2-3

Tuscan Kale & Pecan Pasta

When time is short, the ingredients limited because you cleaned out the fridge in advance of leaving town, and you’re trying to follow the Healthy Is Homemade motto, this dish is the perfect solution.  

I usually have several types of raw nuts in the pantry and they are a perfect addition to pasta for protein, healthy fats and to keep you full. The lucky part of the day was being able to harvest the little tender shoots of a potted Tuscan Kale plant that sprouted on the very long stalk I let bolt this spring (in hopes of harvesting seeds, but I lost track of time). I tasted the leaf, preparing myself for some serious bitterness. If you’ve ever grown lettuce and let it bolt, you’ll know what I mean—the once sweet leaves turn incredibly bitter. To my great and delicious surprise, it was sweet and tender, with marvelous kale overtones. I harvested about a cupful and chopped it up with an equal portion of pecans. I had  a half cup of grated Parmesan in the fridge. I had 15 minutes. The dish sprang to life. 

We ate, did the minimal clean up and headed to the airport happy that we wouldn’t have to resort to the mostly unhealthy food choices available to us.

I will be making this again with fully grown Tuscan kale. You can substitute any sturdy, dark leafy greens, thinly sliced brussel sprouts, cauliflower or broccoli leaves, or even napa cabbage. Spinach is not a good choice here as it wilts away to nothing and gets watery.

RECIPE: Tuscan Kale & Pecan Pasta

INGREDIENTS

• 4oz dry spaghetti cooked to al dente in salted water

• 1 cup chopped raw pecans (you can use walnuts or almonds instead)

• 1 cup chopped Tuscan kale (or any sturdy green)

• 1/2 cup grated parmegiano regiano

• 1/3 teaspoon cracked pepper

• 1 teaspoon unsalted butter

• 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

• 1/4 cup retained pasta water

PROCESS

• Boil water, add salt and cook the pasta. While the pasta is cooking,

• Heat butter and oil over medium flame. Add the pecans and gently toast.

• Add the chopped kale and sauté until gently wilted. About 2 minutes. Add the pepper.

• Add the cooked pasta and toss. Add the cheese, 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water. Toss to combine.

• Adjust the seasoning. Remember that the cheese will add salt to the dish, so taste the completed dish before adding any salt.

  Serves 2

Summer Oatmeal-A Cool Idea

I love grains.  They are good and good for you in so many ways.  Humans have eaten them for thousands of years and many of the vitamins essential to good brain, heart and overall development come from grains.  That said, I despise processed cereals, which are a blight upon the earth; ok that may be a  little heavy but not inaccurate.  I can say this because I spent most of my medical school life eating frosted flakes for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  It was easy and delicious.  I just had no idea that it wasn't really food but sugar with a false label telling me I was getting nutrients in a bowl.  After researching processed cereals several years ago, I came home and threw out all my husband's Cheerios, including the chocolate.  This was an unpleasant surprise for him.  We got through it.  

But here's something more pleasant-a cool (literally) way go prepare oatmeal in the fridge.  It can be personalized based on what dry fruit one prefers.  There's no cooking and it can live in the fridge up to a week making it perfect for school day breakfasts as well.  Make them in smaller mason jars and you can take them to go.

I'm using Mcann's Irish Rolled Oats here.  I like currents and have recently discovered dried mulberries.  These have no sugar added.  You can enhance the oatmeal with additional chopped nuts (pecans, walnuts, pistachios) and fresh fruits, berries or yogurt. The combinations are only limited by your imagination,  As always, I encourage you to eat seasonally.

You can use a larger jar and increase the amounts--just leave some room for the oatmeal to expand a little.  Your can mix all the ingredients in a bowl and divide into smaller jars for individual and to go servings

RECIPE:  Summer Cold Oatmeal

In a Pint canning jar, place:

• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1/8 cup dried currants
• 1/8 cup dried mulberries
• Add 1 and 1/2 cups of whole milk.
• Cover and place in the refrigerator overnight (about 12 hours)
• Spoon out about 1/3 into a bowl and enjoy as is or with the toppings of you choice.

Makes 2-3 servings

Suggestions for toppings:

Peaches, pecans and honey

Berries, almonds, yogurt and honey

Blueberries, walnuts, cinnamon and maple syrup

Bananas and brown sugar

Fried Squash Blossoms Bengali Style

I love squash blossoms! Did you know that the entire squash plant is edible?  Many cultures prepare the leaves and peel the stems to use in soups, sautés and curries. So if you don't get the squash when you plant it , it's not a total failure.  The most laborious part of preparing squash blossoms is removing the stamens from the base inside the blossom. Since I'm frying these, and not stuffing them, it doesn't matter if the the flower tears a bit--it'll be dipped in a delicious, savory, crunchy batter soon enough, covering any flaws. 

This is one of the simplest recipes from the State of Bengal in India and one that has been made in my family for generations.  I have adapted the recipe using soda water to create a lighter batter. 

These blossoms have a delicate flavor and this light batter works well. The nigella seed adds a nice mild oniony flavor. The low temperature frying is done in olive oil, a good for you mono-unsaturated fat.  I eat these free of any guilt as they are really good and good for me--all things in moderation of course.

Squash blossoms are an excellent source of vitamins A and C. They offer a good source of iron, potassium, calcium and beta-carotene and are high in fiber.

RECIPE: Fried Squash Blossoms Bengali Style

INGREDIENTS

• 14-16 blossoms, stamens removed

Batter:

• 1/4 cup rice flour 
• 1/8 cup chick pea flour
• 1 teaspoon nigella seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 
• 1/2 cup soda water
• Extra virgin olive oil for shallow frying

PROCESS

1. Prepare blossoms by gently shaking off any debris and carefully removing the stamen.
2. Set a pan on medium heat with 1/4 inch of oil to cover the bottom.
3. Prepare batter by whisking all ingredients in a bowl.
4. When the surface of the oil begins to move, hold the blossoms by the base, gently coat with batter and lay into oil with a movement away from you.
5.  Fry until golden on both sides. Place on rack or brown paper to drain.

Enjoy at once! They are also delicious at room temperature. 

Can be enjoyed on their own, as a crispy element to a meal, with a cool herbed yogurt or green goddess dip. I love them with a glass of champagne or sparkling rosé.

Quintessentially Summer!

Asian Long Beans with Mustard

One of the delights of living in a diverse community is the variety of produce that's available.  Summer is prime green bean season, and the asian long bean (yard long beans) is variety that I love.  You can certainly substitute it for regular green beans in the recipes you love.  I'm cooking them with a little mustard seed and finishing with mustard oil for a nice, light summer version with a little zing.  This is so easy and fast your kitchen have doesn't have time to heat up.  This recipe is husband approved; it's been requested and prepared for the last several weeks when I can get my hands on the beans!

From a nutrition standpoint, Asian long beans are a rich source of vitamins A,C, calcium and fiber.  The mustard adds some anti-inflammatory properties as well.  The extra virgin olive oil is a healthy mono-unsaturated fat.

You can find black mustard seed and mustard oil at most Asian markets or online.

RECIPE: Asian Long Beans with Mustard Seed and Oil

INGREDIENTS

• 2-3 cups chopped long beans (about 1/2 inch pieces)
• 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil 
• 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon cane sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon mustard oil

PROCESS

1. Heat mustard seeds in oil until they start to pop
2. Add the beans, salt and sugar.  Toss to mix and cover the beans for 2-3 minutes until tender.
3. Drizzle the mustard oil over, toss and enjoy.

Summer Harvest: Pesto

The long, hot summer has gotten to the point where basil must be harvested.  I was fortunate enough to be given a bucket full of freshly harvested basil, a combination of sweet and Genovese varieties.  With that kind of volume, nothing but a quick turn in the food processor will do to make perfect pesto.  I'll store it in the freezer to use for the next few months in a variety of ways. Pesto is a versatile sauce that can be used for pasta, with vegetables, added as an accent to soups or to fish or meats.  I love to toss a little with steamed potatoes and beans.  

I use pecans instead of pine nuts.  I like the sweetness and I'm from Texas. Walnuts, almond or a combination of nuts are also really good.  I leave out the garlic and add crushed red and ground black peppers for a little bite.  I also like to add the zest and juice of a lemon or two.  I don't add the cheese to the pesto until I'm ready to use it.  I find it this keeps a smoother texture when the pesto is frozen and then thawed.  

I always make mine freehand based on taste and texture. I ended up with 16 cups of packed basil leaves, so I scaled up accordingly.   I made an effort to keep measurements and scale  them down for a  smaller quantity, so you may have to adjust for your taste, which you should do anyway.

If you've never made pesto, now's a good time to try it. All you need are the ingredients and a food processor.  If you're old school, a mortar and pestle will be even better. 

RECIPE: Basil Pesto (With Pecans)

YIELD  Makes 2 Cups

INGREDIENTS

• 1 cup pecans (pine nuts, slivered almonds or walnut halves will do)
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 4 packed cups fresh basil leaves
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for storage
• Juice add zest of 2 lemons
•  1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes to taste (optional)
• 1/4 cup grated parmagiano regiano (leave this out if freezing)

PROCESS

• Put the nuts in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped.
•  Add the basil, oil, salt, peppers and  pulse for 1 minute or so until smooth.
• Add the lemon juice and zest and pulse for 1 minute more, until smooth. 
• Stir in the cheese if using soon.  Leave this out if you are freezing.
• To store, transfer the pesto to a sterilized jar with a tight-fitting lid. Pour a thin layer of olive oil on top of the pesto, seal and refrigerate up to 10 days or freeze up to 3 months.

Strawberry Cardamom Lassi

Yogurt is the original probiotic.  Yogurt based drinks have been popular for thousands of years in places like China, Turkey, the Eastern European and Caucuss regions, and the Middle East. Each part of the world have their own versions, both savory and sweet.  The fermentation of the milk allows helpful lactobacilli bacteria to populate our guts and aid in digestion.  This balance of bacteria in our guts, known as the microbiome,  is being studied intensely in medical circles right now as they are linked to many processes in the body, including mood and memory.  Disturbance of this microbiome is thought to cause problems with our health.

Yogurt is a good way to repopulate and nourish a healthy microbiome.  I feel strongly that the key to getting benefit from yogurt is choosing one that is free of preservatives, thickeners. (guar gum, carrageenan, methylcellulose, etc) and sweeteners. These ingredients may be causing an inflammatory reaction in the gut, which is the second largest immune organ next to our skin, preventing the absorption of the nutrients and changing the lactobacilli.    

This is a delicious recipe for lassi, the Indian version of yogurt drink.  I get my goat milk from the remarkable family at Swede Farm.  You can always alter the fruit, but I find the cardamom works best with strawberries.  This simple and delicious drink is more of a food, which is how I think about all dairy.  You’re getting protein, fiber, Vitamin C, Folic Acid, acanthocyanins (plant based compounds thought to be beneficial is heart health and cancer prevention), and the minerals manganese and potassium. A little local honey for sweetness keeps the glycemic index lower than using refined sugars, stevia or agave.

^{This is a recycled recipe from my Facebook page published on 4/22/17}

RECIPE: Strawberry Lassi

INGREDIENTS

• 1 lb strawberries, cut up
• 1 qt natural goat milk yogurt (if using thick goat or cow milk yogurt use 1-1/2 cups yogurt and 1/2 cup water)
• 2-3Tsp honey (optional and to taste depending on how sweet your strawberries are)
• 1/2 tsp Penzey's ground cardamom

PROCESS

1. Blend.
2. Adjust sweetness.
3. Enjoy!

Makes 4 cups.

Sorrel-A Green that’s a Lemony Delight

Sorrel is a nutrition packed summer green that’s deliciously tart, and can be added to salads, pesto and so much more. It’s not always readily found, but if you can get your hands on it, you should try it.  It’s lemony tartness is fragrant, without the sweetness of lemon. There are multiple different varieties; some are all green, some have beautiful red and pink variegated leaves.  I have made sorrel/chard and ricotta soup in the past. I love sorrel and parsley pesto with pecans taking the place of pine nuts to add a little sweetness, and balance the tartness from the sorrel.

Today, the bunch of sorrel in my farmers’ market basket paired with summer yellow squash, some dried herbs from the pantry and a fresh pasta from my freezer to make a light, easy and healthy lunch.   The vegetables are clearly the stars here, fresh from the farm.  

Sorrel is nutritious and a good source of fiber.  It’s rich in vitamins A and C, B6, magnesium and iron. As always, a little added fat will help your body absorb the vitamin A.  You can certainly skip the cream and pasta and eat the sautéed vegetables on their own.  This recipe can be easily scaled up with more vegetables and pasta.  

So easy, delicious, nutritious and pretty.  My husband said he would eat it everyday. I hope you like it. 

RECIPE: Sorrel & Summer Squash Pasta

INGREDIENTS

• 4 to 6 oz fresh pasta (you can use 2-3 oz 0f your favorite dried as well) 
• 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil  
• 1 teaspoon dried oragano
• 1 teaspoon Penzey’s Foxpoint Herb Mix
• 1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder
• 1/3 teaspoon sea salt
• 2 cups diced summer squash
• 2 cups chopped sorrell
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• grated parmesan

PROCESS

1. Sautee squash in olive oil with salt and spices until tender. 
2. Add sorrel and cream, and toss. Turn off the heat.
3. Add cooked pasta and toss.
4. Serve with a sprinkle of grated Parmesan. 

Serves 2

Basic Greens

Greens are good and good for you. I love greens: Swiss chard, spinach, beet, mustard, amaranth, collard, radish, kale and so many others are all great to eat. I also love the leaves of cauliflower, broccoli, and brussel sprouts and cook them in the same manner, chopping the stems and cooking them a little longer.  (I do not use carrot tops as they concentrate arsenic from the soil).  I’m always surprised when people tell me they don’t like greens. They usually haven’t had them prepared in a way they like. The usual method of cooking greens with salted pork or bacon is tasty to many, but takes awhile, and the greens are very, very cooked. My method takes almost no time at all, and results in a light, bright just wilted green that’s delicious, and healthy. 

Greens are packed with nutrition and a great source of fiber. They are rich in iron, potassium, zinc and other minerals.  Amaranth is a rich source of folate, and other B vitamins. Swiss chard and beet greens are rich sources of vitamin A, which is more readily absorbed by the body if eaten with a little good fat, like extra virgin olive oil. Overall, the nutritional profiles of all greens are such that it’s a shame not to have them as a regular part of our meals. They also keep you feeling full with very few calories.

Greens need to be washed well. I soak mine in lots of water in the sink, allowing dirt to sink to the bottom, and then drain (see Food Safety). I separate the leaves from the stems, which I chop and sauté before adding in the greens.  

This is more a method than a recipe and can be adjusted for various quantities as ‘a bunch’ varies tremendously.  Remember, that greens cook down considerably, so start in a large pan. You will end up with a much smaller volume in the end.  Always salt at the end, when you can see the cooked amount, otherwise you’ll usually end up with overly salty and watery greens.

I’m showing rainbow chard here, because that’s what’s growing where I am. It’s also very tender and sweet. And pretty. 

RECIPE: Basic Greens

INGREDIENTS  

• 1 bunch greens  (washed and chopped, about 8 cups of greens)
• 1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional) 
• 1 teaspoon vinegar (I like champagne and cider) 
• Salt and Pepper

PROCESS

1. Heat oil in large pan with pepper flakes. 
2. Add the stems and sautee for 3-4 minutes to soften. 
3. Add greens and toss to wilt and cook through.
4. Add vinegar, salt and pepper to taste and toss to evenly distribute. 

Makes 4 servings.