Pasta with Peas & Dill

Simple pastas are the best. That’s what I learned in Italy. Get good pasta, hopefully fresh, but frozen will do and good quality dried is fine too. Don’t complicate the sauce. Use what you have. I get my pasta from Casetta, where they get their flour from Italy and the chef is Italian!

I got to this from my travels to Turin. I was there for a conference in the 1990s. I was attending a course that ended late and I missed dinner. On my way back to my hotel, I stopped in the little bar for a drink and asked if there was a place to get some food as the hotel restaurant was closed. The owner went into the back and came out with a lovely bowl of pasta with peas in a simple butter sauce. It was delicious. Heavenly. So I came back the next evening and he made another plate of pasta for me, this time with herbs he had on hand. The third night I asked if I could see how he created this magical pasta and he showed me.

This pasta dish is a homage to my teacher in Turin. Travel is remarkable in so many ways, but for me food and connection to place is the most meaningful.

The pasta and peas both provide protein, the butter and olive oil are good fats and the dill gives vitamins and mineral. You can eat this alone or with a small piece of fish or a few shrimp. It’s really delicious. If you don’t like dill, use parsley or a combination of other herbs instead. It’ll be just a good, only different.

RECIPE: Pasta with Peas & Dill

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 Teaspoons good butter

• 1 Tablespoon Extra Virgin Olive oil

• 2 Tablespoon Meyer lemon juice (1 Table spoon regular lemon juice)

• 1/4 Teaspoon crushed red chili

• 1 Cup chopped fresh dill

• 2 Cups frozen peas, rinsed in water

• 2 Tablespoons creme fraiche

• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

• 1/4 Teaspoon freshly ground pepper

• 8oz fresh pasta

• Grated parmesan for serving

PROCESS

• Warm butter, olive oil in a pan on low heat.

• Add lemon juice and chili flakes.

• Add dill, salt and pepper and gently warm for 1-2 minutes.

• Add peas and warm for 2-3 minutes.

• Add creme fraiche and mix to create sauce.

• Add pasta, toss and cook with sauce for 1 minute.

• Serve with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese

Serves 2-3

Tuscan Kale & Pecan Pasta

When time is short, the ingredients limited because you cleaned out the fridge in advance of leaving town, and you’re trying to follow the Healthy Is Homemade motto, this dish is the perfect solution.  

I usually have several types of raw nuts in the pantry and they are a perfect addition to pasta for protein, healthy fats and to keep you full. The lucky part of the day was being able to harvest the little tender shoots of a potted Tuscan Kale plant that sprouted on the very long stalk I let bolt this spring (in hopes of harvesting seeds, but I lost track of time). I tasted the leaf, preparing myself for some serious bitterness. If you’ve ever grown lettuce and let it bolt, you’ll know what I mean—the once sweet leaves turn incredibly bitter. To my great and delicious surprise, it was sweet and tender, with marvelous kale overtones. I harvested about a cupful and chopped it up with an equal portion of pecans. I had  a half cup of grated Parmesan in the fridge. I had 15 minutes. The dish sprang to life. 

We ate, did the minimal clean up and headed to the airport happy that we wouldn’t have to resort to the mostly unhealthy food choices available to us.

I will be making this again with fully grown Tuscan kale. You can substitute any sturdy, dark leafy greens, thinly sliced brussel sprouts, cauliflower or broccoli leaves, or even napa cabbage. Spinach is not a good choice here as it wilts away to nothing and gets watery.

RECIPE: Tuscan Kale & Pecan Pasta

INGREDIENTS

• 4oz dry spaghetti cooked to al dente in salted water

• 1 cup chopped raw pecans (you can use walnuts or almonds instead)

• 1 cup chopped Tuscan kale (or any sturdy green)

• 1/2 cup grated parmegiano regiano

• 1/3 teaspoon cracked pepper

• 1 teaspoon unsalted butter

• 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

• 1/4 cup retained pasta water

PROCESS

• Boil water, add salt and cook the pasta. While the pasta is cooking,

• Heat butter and oil over medium flame. Add the pecans and gently toast.

• Add the chopped kale and sauté until gently wilted. About 2 minutes. Add the pepper.

• Add the cooked pasta and toss. Add the cheese, 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water. Toss to combine.

• Adjust the seasoning. Remember that the cheese will add salt to the dish, so taste the completed dish before adding any salt.

  Serves 2

Sorrel-A Green that’s a Lemony Delight

Sorrel is a nutrition packed summer green that’s deliciously tart, and can be added to salads, pesto and so much more. It’s not always readily found, but if you can get your hands on it, you should try it.  It’s lemony tartness is fragrant, without the sweetness of lemon. There are multiple different varieties; some are all green, some have beautiful red and pink variegated leaves.  I have made sorrel/chard and ricotta soup in the past. I love sorrel and parsley pesto with pecans taking the place of pine nuts to add a little sweetness, and balance the tartness from the sorrel.

Today, the bunch of sorrel in my farmers’ market basket paired with summer yellow squash, some dried herbs from the pantry and a fresh pasta from my freezer to make a light, easy and healthy lunch.   The vegetables are clearly the stars here, fresh from the farm.  

Sorrel is nutritious and a good source of fiber.  It’s rich in vitamins A and C, B6, magnesium and iron. As always, a little added fat will help your body absorb the vitamin A.  You can certainly skip the cream and pasta and eat the sautéed vegetables on their own.  This recipe can be easily scaled up with more vegetables and pasta.  

So easy, delicious, nutritious and pretty.  My husband said he would eat it everyday. I hope you like it. 

RECIPE: Sorrel & Summer Squash Pasta

INGREDIENTS

• 4 to 6 oz fresh pasta (you can use 2-3 oz 0f your favorite dried as well) 
• 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil  
• 1 teaspoon dried oragano
• 1 teaspoon Penzey’s Foxpoint Herb Mix
• 1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder
• 1/3 teaspoon sea salt
• 2 cups diced summer squash
• 2 cups chopped sorrell
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• grated parmesan

PROCESS

1. Sautee squash in olive oil with salt and spices until tender. 
2. Add sorrel and cream, and toss. Turn off the heat.
3. Add cooked pasta and toss.
4. Serve with a sprinkle of grated Parmesan. 

Serves 2

Pasta with Light Tomato Sauce

It’s tomato season where I live! This year, after hurricanes, freezes, and 2 snowings (most unusual for us), the tomato crop is more plentiful than ever. As a result, I’m inspired to create new tomato sauces.  This one is light and aromatic using fennel and mild herbs. No need to peel or core the tomatoes, just chop them up.  The addition of white wine helps to meld the flavors as the alcohol cooks away. This sauce also cooks in the time it takes to make the pasta, which is perfect.

The tomatoes are truly the star here, so freshness is important.  I have also used a good quality pasta made with ancient wheat from Italy as the sauce is light and the taste of the pasta is important. Several artisanal varieties using heritage American wheats are also available online. Or, just use your favorite dried pasta. 

This dish is rich in vitamins A, C, B1, B2, B6, folate, niacin, potassium, manganese, several other nutrients, minerals and fiber.  The pasta also contains some protein. You can add a little cheese if you like, for calcium.

RECIPE:  Pasta with Light Tomato Sauce (white wine, fennel, marjoram, thyme) 

INGREDIENTS

• 1-1/2 lb tomatoes, chopped (I used San Marzano, but plum or Roma would be fine)
• 1 cup finely chopped fennel 
• 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/4 tsp ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes 
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• A few sprigs each, marjoram and thyme 
• 1/4 cup fresh parsley
• 1/4 cup fresh basil
• 250 grams (dry weight) noodles, just undercooked as they will finish cooking in the sauce (I used tortiglioni here, but penne with ridges would be perfect)

PROCESS

1. Cook the pasta according to the directions in salted water while you prepare the sauce.
2. Heat oil in pan with the pepper flakes.
3. Add the fennel and sauté for about 3 minutes to soften.
4. Add the tomatoes, wine, salt, marjoram and thyme. Simmer gently for 8-10 minutes.
5. Drain the pasta, add it to the sauce and toss. 
6. Add the parsley and basil and toss again.
7. Serve immeidately

Serves 4 (or 2 with generous portions)

Pasta with Fresh Tomato Sauce (San Marzano)

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The first crop of good tomatoes finally made it to the farmers’ market. And to my great surprise, I found that my Plant It Forward farmer, Sarment had San Marzano tomatoes in his basket.  According to Wikipedia, San Marzano tomatoes originate from the small town of San Marzano sul Sarno, near Naples, Italy, and were first grown in volcanic soil in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. If I have to use canned tomatoes, these are the only ones I use.

These San Marzanos  were grown in Houston, with no volcanic soil in sight. But everything Farmer Sarment grows is delicious.  So I bought a few intending to showcase them in a no-cook tomato sauce as we hit our first 90 degree days for the year.

Using the best and freshest ingredients in this dish is a must as each flavor shines and nothing is hidden.  Using store bought tomatoes that have been held in cold storage for several weeks with no flavor, aroma or taste, is not advised.  Fresh tomatoes from your garden or a local farmers’ market are the best choice.  The olive oil should also be very good quality and have a rich flavor. For this recipe I use Iliada Organic Extra Virgin Kalamata Olive Oil (you can usually find this in import markets or online).  The pasta also deserves some attention.  I prefer a dry pasta here as it lends some tooth to the soft texture and lightness of the sauce, and using a good organic wheat variety is warranted. Use fresh pasta if you prefer.  The parts blend together to form a simple, delicious dish.  The sauce is extremely light and flavorful.  The tomatoes macerate in the oil and lend their flavor to the sauce without fully breaking down, so its really more of a tomato oil that coats the pasta with lovely bits of tomato along with it.  A little crusty bread will help you lap up every last drop.

The olive oil helps us absorb the vitamin A from the tomatoes. The tomatoes are also a rich source of vitamin C and lycopene.  The pasta provides magnesium, several B vitamins, including thiamine (B1), which are necessary for brain health and memory.

As spring gives way to summer, what better way to lighten our spirits and our dishes than avoiding time at the stove.  Just a pot to boil the pasta and a big bowl to macerate the tomato sauce is all you’ll need to get a healthy and delicious meal on the table. 

RECIPE: Pasta with Fresh Tomato Sauce

INGREDIENTS

• 24oz fresh tomatoes,  finely chopped (preferably plum or San Marzanos if you can find them)
• 1 bunch/handful fresh basil
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 1/2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
• 1/2 C extra virgin olive oil (the good stuff)
• 8 oz (dry weight) organic spaghetti/fettuccine cooked al dente in salted water 
• Freshly grated parmigiano regiano for serving

PROCESS

1. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl (big enough to fit the pasta and toss)and let sit for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. The longer it sits the better it gets.
2. Add the well-drained cooked pasta and toss. Serve topped with grated parmigiano regiano, and a few more basil leaves.

Serves 2-4

Simplicity & Balance: Cacio e Pepe

TRAVEL FOOD JOURNAL: TUSCANY

Take Home Lesson #1 Simplicity & Balance

Italian Version

One of the many joys of traveling is re-introducing yourself to dishes you thought you knew, cooked by the people who originally made them. I am not debating good or bad, better or worse here; I’m thinking about how our own palates alter the interpretation of the dishes and the myriad of reasons this happens.

Pici cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) is the simplest of dishes and thus, difficult to make perfectly. Classically a dish from Rome, where the cheese used is pecorino romano, the Tuscan version can use parmagiano regiano, as the city of Parma is not too far away, or pecorino toscano. The pasta type, pici, which a chubby cousin of spaghetti, hails from Siena, and is the perfect size and thickness to hold and balance the minimalist sauce. This must be cooked and served at once for the true deliciousness to be savored. If you are using fresh pici, and I’m trying to find the right die to make it, the first bite of pasta may seem a little undercooked, but the rest will be perfect as it continues to cook and absorb the sauce. Fresh pasta makes a big difference here, as its stickiness and starchiness helps create the creaminess of the sauce, as well as absorbing the flavors.

American Version

The pici cacio e pepe I had recently in Florence was masterfully done. I had a version in Houston the week before, which was also delicious, but my new experience begs me to reconsider our version-perhaps the added mound of cheese and and extra cracked pepper is gilding the lily. By comparison, the Italian version would seem totally naked, unadorned. But, this is how we in America view our pasta: under a sea of sauce and a mound of cheese. It’s what we expect when we order pasta, and this is perfectly fine. This may be derived from the Italian American experience as immigrants brought the food of their origins into a new world, adapting to what was available, the amount of time they had to cook, and changing it in the process. Many other factors also played roles, including big changes in how and why Americans eat.

We eat with our eyes first, so there has to be an adjustment in our view, a change in the expectation of what deliciousness looks like. Minimalist, modern, sophisticated food is delicious, and served on a beautiful plate the visual affect is stunning.

Until I figure out how to make pici, or talk the pasta man into making it for me, I’ll get really good fresh spaghetti from the farmers market, and remember to cook it very al dente as I mix the sauce.

I’m going to try to incorporate this lesson into my cooking and eating. Using great ingredients remains the key to all great food. To balance them in simple perfection, to create a harmonious dish is not easy, but well worth the practice. I will try to visualize food differently as well, looking not for embellishment, but simplicity, balance and sophistication. Less is more in many things, and this dish is a perfect example.

The recipe below is more of a process and you should change the amounts and combinations of cheese and pepper to your taste. It’s so quick to make, you can love several versions and make what you like. The key is the pan sauce, using just the right amount of water; so add it in small quantities for the perfect creaminess.

Most recipes for this add butter and oil, which are fine, but this is the simplest of versions.

Have a high sided pan to build the sauce and pasta. Get all the ingredients ready and have them at hand, as this goes quickly!

RECIPE: Pasta Cacio e Pepe

INGREDIENTS

• 8oz fresh pasta (spaghetti, or pici if you can get it)
• Kosher or sea salt
• 1-2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
• 1 to 1-1/2 C grated pecorino (or 1/2 each pecorino and paramgiano)

PROCESS

1. Bring water to boil in a pot and add salt.
2. Add pasta to the pot and cook per instructions to al dente.
3. Warm the pan over low heat.
4. Drain pasta, reserving 1 C pasta water.
5. Put pasta into the pan and immediately add the cheese mixing quickly and adding small amounts of the reserved pasta water to create a creamy dressing. Add desired amount of pepper so that it has a sharpness and spice, but is not too hot, and mix again.
6. Serve immediately and enjoy.

Serves 2-4.