Roasted Eggplant (Aubergine): The perfect canvas

I have loved roasted eggplant since I was a wee child.  Both my grandmothers cooked eggplant over earthen or clay stoves with wood fires.  The smoky, luscious eggplant was dressed with cilantro, green chilies and mustard oil.  My maternal grandmother may have added sautéed onions and a few spices on occasion.  

Roasted eggplant is beloved by many culinary traditions.  Middle eastern dishes like babaganouj and Persian spiced eggplant are some of my favorites.  The mediterranean and the near and far East have their own versions. I've described the simple method favored in Bengal. In other parts of India, tomatoes, spices and garlic are added with amazing results and complex tastes.  

I demonstrated this dish at the farmers' market a few summer ago.  I don't usually cook it at home as my husband doesn't prefer (his code for 'I really don't like') eggplant.  He's tried it and just doesn't like it. I've always wondered if he'd feel differently if we called it aubergine, which is far more sophisticated and appealing. 

Last weekend, I was in line a produce vendor at the farmer' market and the two women in front of me were talking about eggplant.  One said it looked great, but she didn't know what to do with it.  So I offered up this technique in which you can take the flavor profile into any direction that you prefer.  The roasting takes a little time and can be a bit messy if done over a gas flame (lining your stove with foil may help), but it can also be done in a broiler with the eggplants cut in half and laid with the cut side down so the outsides char.

The smoky, umami liquid that pools when you allow the eggplant to cool in a bowl is too delicious to toss; strain it into the pulp.  Waste not want not. 

I have dressed this with parsley, mother of thyme (a little less intense than regular thyme), gray salt, lemon  and olive oil.  I added a teaspoon of mustard oil in honor of my grandmothers--the pungent flavor blends perfectly with the smoky sweetness of the eggplant. You can add other herbs, garlic, onion, spice mixes including zatar, ras el hanout, herbs de Provence, garam masala, cumin, Thai curry paste, Chinese five spice, miso, tahini or something from wherever your imagination and inspiration lead you.

Large, globe eggplants work best here.  Medium rounded eggplants will also do.  One large black beauty eggplant yields about a cup of flesh.  You can roast an army of eggplants, or treat this like the precious, special dish that it is.  Eat less; savor the flavors and the moment. 

In terms of nutrition, eggplants are a rich,low calorie source of fiber, providing vitamins C, B6, niacin, Folate and also minerals such as potassium and magnesium. 

You should really try this dish.  Who knows. You may make an aubergine lover of someone.

RECIPE: Roasted Eggplant with parsley, mother of thyme, lemon and olive oil

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 large black beauty or other globe eggplants
• 1 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 table spoon chopped fresh parsley
• 1 teaspoon mother of thyme
• 1/4 teaspoon gray salt (more to taste)
• 2 teaspoon lemon juice (more to taste depending on the acidity of your lemon)
• Strained juice of the eggplants
• 1 teaspoon mustard oil (optional)

PROCESS

•  Roast the eggplants until the skin is charred all over and the flesh is very soft.
• Use spoons or knives to break down the flesh. 
• Add all remaining ingredients and mix well.
• Season to taste.
• Enjoy.

Makes 2 cups

Fried Squash Blossoms Bengali Style

I love squash blossoms! Did you know that the entire squash plant is edible?  Many cultures prepare the leaves and peel the stems to use in soups, sautés and curries. So if you don't get the squash when you plant it , it's not a total failure.  The most laborious part of preparing squash blossoms is removing the stamens from the base inside the blossom. Since I'm frying these, and not stuffing them, it doesn't matter if the the flower tears a bit--it'll be dipped in a delicious, savory, crunchy batter soon enough, covering any flaws. 

This is one of the simplest recipes from the State of Bengal in India and one that has been made in my family for generations.  I have adapted the recipe using soda water to create a lighter batter. 

These blossoms have a delicate flavor and this light batter works well. The nigella seed adds a nice mild oniony flavor. The low temperature frying is done in olive oil, a good for you mono-unsaturated fat.  I eat these free of any guilt as they are really good and good for me--all things in moderation of course.

Squash blossoms are an excellent source of vitamins A and C. They offer a good source of iron, potassium, calcium and beta-carotene and are high in fiber.

RECIPE: Fried Squash Blossoms Bengali Style

INGREDIENTS

• 14-16 blossoms, stamens removed

Batter:

• 1/4 cup rice flour 
• 1/8 cup chick pea flour
• 1 teaspoon nigella seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 
• 1/2 cup soda water
• Extra virgin olive oil for shallow frying

PROCESS

1. Prepare blossoms by gently shaking off any debris and carefully removing the stamen.
2. Set a pan on medium heat with 1/4 inch of oil to cover the bottom.
3. Prepare batter by whisking all ingredients in a bowl.
4. When the surface of the oil begins to move, hold the blossoms by the base, gently coat with batter and lay into oil with a movement away from you.
5.  Fry until golden on both sides. Place on rack or brown paper to drain.

Enjoy at once! They are also delicious at room temperature. 

Can be enjoyed on their own, as a crispy element to a meal, with a cool herbed yogurt or green goddess dip. I love them with a glass of champagne or sparkling rosé.

Quintessentially Summer!

Asian Long Beans with Mustard

One of the delights of living in a diverse community is the variety of produce that's available.  Summer is prime green bean season, and the asian long bean (yard long beans) is variety that I love.  You can certainly substitute it for regular green beans in the recipes you love.  I'm cooking them with a little mustard seed and finishing with mustard oil for a nice, light summer version with a little zing.  This is so easy and fast your kitchen have doesn't have time to heat up.  This recipe is husband approved; it's been requested and prepared for the last several weeks when I can get my hands on the beans!

From a nutrition standpoint, Asian long beans are a rich source of vitamins A,C, calcium and fiber.  The mustard adds some anti-inflammatory properties as well.  The extra virgin olive oil is a healthy mono-unsaturated fat.

You can find black mustard seed and mustard oil at most Asian markets or online.

RECIPE: Asian Long Beans with Mustard Seed and Oil

INGREDIENTS

• 2-3 cups chopped long beans (about 1/2 inch pieces)
• 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil 
• 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon cane sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon mustard oil

PROCESS

1. Heat mustard seeds in oil until they start to pop
2. Add the beans, salt and sugar.  Toss to mix and cover the beans for 2-3 minutes until tender.
3. Drizzle the mustard oil over, toss and enjoy.

Strawberry Cardamom Lassi

Yogurt is the original probiotic.  Yogurt based drinks have been popular for thousands of years in places like China, Turkey, the Eastern European and Caucuss regions, and the Middle East. Each part of the world have their own versions, both savory and sweet.  The fermentation of the milk allows helpful lactobacilli bacteria to populate our guts and aid in digestion.  This balance of bacteria in our guts, known as the microbiome,  is being studied intensely in medical circles right now as they are linked to many processes in the body, including mood and memory.  Disturbance of this microbiome is thought to cause problems with our health.

Yogurt is a good way to repopulate and nourish a healthy microbiome.  I feel strongly that the key to getting benefit from yogurt is choosing one that is free of preservatives, thickeners. (guar gum, carrageenan, methylcellulose, etc) and sweeteners. These ingredients may be causing an inflammatory reaction in the gut, which is the second largest immune organ next to our skin, preventing the absorption of the nutrients and changing the lactobacilli.    

This is a delicious recipe for lassi, the Indian version of yogurt drink.  I get my goat milk from the remarkable family at Swede Farm.  You can always alter the fruit, but I find the cardamom works best with strawberries.  This simple and delicious drink is more of a food, which is how I think about all dairy.  You’re getting protein, fiber, Vitamin C, Folic Acid, acanthocyanins (plant based compounds thought to be beneficial is heart health and cancer prevention), and the minerals manganese and potassium. A little local honey for sweetness keeps the glycemic index lower than using refined sugars, stevia or agave.

^{This is a recycled recipe from my Facebook page published on 4/22/17}

RECIPE: Strawberry Lassi

INGREDIENTS

• 1 lb strawberries, cut up
• 1 qt natural goat milk yogurt (if using thick goat or cow milk yogurt use 1-1/2 cups yogurt and 1/2 cup water)
• 2-3Tsp honey (optional and to taste depending on how sweet your strawberries are)
• 1/2 tsp Penzey's ground cardamom

PROCESS

1. Blend.
2. Adjust sweetness.
3. Enjoy!

Makes 4 cups.

Fish Curry In A Hurry

According to the latest science, we should be eating fish at least twice a week to prevent stroke, heart disease and dementia. Many people fear cooking fish; overcooking, undercooking and generally stinking up the kitchen. Fish is not just healthy, but can be easy and simple to prepare. This is my easiest fish curry so far.  

This recipe works well for for weeknight meals.  Braising the fish in a flavorful light broth makes it difficult to overcook and the fish stays moist and firm. Braising also reduces cleanup and odors by avoiding the mess of splattering oil which occurs when sautéing or pan-frying. 

The use of powdered spices is inspired by Indian home cooking, as is the light broth. Its not like the creamy dishes found in most Indian restaurants, which are generally not cooked at home. This combination of spices is typical of the state of Bengal, where preparing delicious fish is a highly revered specialty and the pride of all home cooks. It's a lightly spicy curry and you can use only one, or even a half jalapeño if you prefer it mild.

If your fish is frozen, thaw it slowly in the fridge for a day or two before using. If you didn’t plan ahead, thaw in changes of cool water. Keeping the fish cold until cooking reduces the risk of harmful bacterial contamination. 

You can easily adapt this recipe to included shellfish or as a vegetarian version. 

RECIPE: Fish Curry in a Hurry

INGREDIENTS

• 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil  
• 1 teaspoon nigella seeds 
• 1-2 jalapeños, quartered lengthwise  
• 2 teaspoons cumin
• 2 teaspoons coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric  
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 Cups water
• 1 Cup halved cherry tomatoes, about 20
• 2 pounds firm white fish ( snapper, redfish, mackerel, etc), cut into 2 oz pieces (about 2 inch) 

PROCESS

1. Heat the nigella seeds in oil over medium heat until they begin to sizzle. 
2. Add the spices, jalapeños and salt and sauté for 1-2 minutes. 
3. Add the water and cherry tomatoes and bring to a boil. 
4. Add the fish and cook at medium heat until cooked through, about 8 minutes.
5. Serve with rice or enjoy on its own. 

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Tricolor Vegetables w Bengali 5 Spice (panch phoran)

One of the many joys of seasonal cooking is embracing doing the best with what you’ve got. Such is my journey with purple cabbage. I don’t give it much thought at all. I look at it and immediately think cole slaw.  But Sarment, one of the farmers I visit every week knowing everything he grows is delicious, had several adorable little purple cabbages a few weeks ago. He also had gorgeous Swiss chard and the usual divine sweet potatoes. These items came home with me and became the inspiration for this dish. 

I have been making this regularly and eating it with a side of Greek yogurt as lunch. It’s lovely to look at, and the purple cabbage retains its color and crunch to balance against the gently wilted chard and creamy sweet potatoes. Everyone, especially children, are always interested in this dish. It’s appealing.

I have used an Indian spice mix here as it is round in taste, flavorful, mild and compliments the vegetables. It’s a particularly good complement to cabbage. Traditionally used in the Indian state of Bengal, panch (five) phoran (whole spice) is a mix containing fennel, nigella(onion seeds), mustard, fenugreek and cumin. It is used in a old vegetable dish popular in Bengali households called chachori, where no part of any vegetable is wasted. This tradition is being slowly lost in favor of more sophisticated foods, but it’s too delicious not to rescue.  You can also use coriander in place of the cumin.  You can make your own (equal parts of each) or buy it online.  Spices have medicinal and health properties that have been studied in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries. This blend contains spices that act as anti-oxidants and are believed to reduce inflammation. 

Something this beautiful, easy and delicious makes cooking a delight. Serve it as a side dish, eat with a piece of bread, a small bowl of rice, or with yogurt (like me).  I hope you will enjoy it as much as I do.

RECIPE: Tricolor Vegetables with Bengali 5 Spice

INGREDIENTS

• 2 tsp panch phoran
• 1 Tsp expeller pressed canola
• 3C chopped sweet potatoes
• 3C chopped purple cabbage
• 1 C chopped Chard stems
• 4C chopped Chard leaves
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp cayenne (more to taste)
• 1/4 tsp turmeric

PROCESS

1. Heat spices in the pan slowly with oil until the mustard seeds just start to pop.
2. Add the sweet potatoes and remaining spices and sauté for 2-3 minutes, covering occasionally.
3. Add the cabbage, toss, and cook covered for 3-4 minutes.
4. Add chard stems and cook covered 3-4 minutes.
5. Add the chard leaves and toss to gently wilt.  

Adjust seasonings and enjoy.   Serves 4.

Step 1

Heat spices in the pan slowly with oil until the mustard seeds just start to pop.

Step 2

Add the sweet potatoes and remaining spices and sauté for 2-3 minutes, covering occasionally.

Step 3

Add the cabbage, toss, and cook covered for 3-4 minutes.

Step 4

Add chard stems and cook covered 3-4 minutes.

Step 5

Add the chard leaves and toss to gently wilt.